Making landfall in Malta on 21st September, their Independence Day

We can't say that the conditions of the passage were a surprise; they were as forecast. The constant NW F6 wasn't a problem, we sailed nicely under foresail alone, but the sea was very confused because of the past storms and we rode uncomfortably in two swell trains, one on the beam and one on the aft quarter. Angie felt that we'd been dealt a pretty rough hand this season and with most of the stuffing already knocked out of us, there was little left to dig deep for. Too rough to sleep, and with no inclination to go below decks to cook something to eat, we just hung on for most of the ride. The hardest hours were in the black of the moonless night when the wind strength dropped and left us wallowing under engine in a leftover sea. But with the approaching dawn the sea flattened and our passage along the north and east coast of Gozo and the east coast of Malta was very relaxed and picturesque.

Our pilot advised us to contact Valletta Port Control at 10nM off to request permission to enter the harbour, after several communications we were finally granted permission to enter less than 1nM off and were soon met by a RIB to lead us to a marina berth. On several occasions over the previous five weeks, we'd attempted to call and email a couple of the marinas in Malta requesting berthing information. This was of little avail other than to learn that everywhere was terribly full, and so, with a berth on offer at one of our preferable marinas we were more than happy for them to lead the way into this magnificent harbour - we'd arrived!

The harbour entrance was incredibly busy with a stampede of yachts and motor boats heading out for the day - we had forgotten until now that it was a Maltese National holiday, and the Maltese people love messing about in boats! Our berth wasn't exactly the marina berth we'd expected, but extremely tired from the passage and wilting in the midday heat, we accepted the spot on offer, bows to a concrete quay between two large freighters, and once settled collapsed into our bunks. After revitalising showers we later took a long walk in order to get our bearings and absorb some Maltese culture - we immediately fell in love with the place. The climate was much warmer and drier than in Sicily, where we'd already been wearing fleeces and long trousers on occasion. In the evenings, locals filled the promenade as they came with their families to dine alfresco. Old, brightly painted, Leyland buses reminded us of our visit to India as they trundled to-and-fro, tooting lively horns and crunching boxes of gears. The Maltese people were genuinely welcoming and friendly, and of course, the ease of the English language, both written and spoken, was a pleasurable convenience. We were sure that we'd enjoy spending a winter here, all that was left for us to do, was possibly one of the most difficult things to do in Malta during September - secure a winter berth!