Cadiz - the oldest city in Europe.

20th May - We left Rota to sail just 7 miles across the bay to the city of Cadiz and were blessed with near perfect conditions. The sea state was a little sharp and kept us on our toes but with 12-18knts from behind and the sun shining we couldn't help but grin broadly as we goose-winged into the docks with a container ship alongside sharing the channel. Approaching the marina we became a little confused, the layout didn't correspond with the diagram in our pilot and there was now an outer basin. As this basin was almost empty and the few yachts moored there were all Spanish we motored through to the next.

The first thing to catch our eye as we entered the inner basin was 'Roam', our friends Rival 34. We couldn't see any other visiting yachts, so we decided to berth in the next available finger pontoon on the same quay. Once settled and taking in the surroundings we could see more clearly how the marina had been modified. A mole extension has now been built giving superb protection to the once more open original basin (inner). The outer basin is brand new and suitable for yachts 12M and over; as the marina entrance is in this basin, at the moment it is open to a little swell from passing ships but there are plans to build another breakwater to prevent this.

We first met Terry and Fiona of 'Roam' in Bayona, Spain, August 2005, also heading south down the west coast of Portugal and en-route to the Med. We kept in touch by email over the winter but hadn't seen them since September '05, as we stayed on the Algarve for winter and they continued east into Spain. A few hours later they returned to 'Roam' from a holiday in the Balearics; they'd intended to join friends flying out to the Balearics aboard 'Roam', but had not managed to make the passage there in time. We enjoyed a fabulous impromptu reunion, catching up on the last eight months over a few beers and a curry, followed by rum and whiskey tasting until four in the morning!

The next couple of days were spent sightseeing and exploring this charming little city, all done with ease on foot. Founded about 1100BC by the Phoenicians as Gadir its history is immense, however much of inner Cadiz dates back to the eighteenth century, its greatest period due to the silting up of the river to Seville. The port enjoyed a virtual monopoly on the Spanish-American trade in gold and silver and on its proceeds built a golden-domed cathedral; a very distinctive landmark from the sea. We visited the Puertas de Tierra (Land Gates), a substantial remnant of the eighteenth century walls where we viewed a short movie of Cadiz's history followed by a guided tour of the buildings before being left to freely roam the outer walls. The Museo de Belles Artes y Arqueologico, free to enter with an EU passport, made for another fascinating visit. Beautifully displaying excavated Phoenician jewellery, bronze figurines, fifth century BC carved white marble sarcophagi and many Roman artefacts on the first floor, whilst the second and third floors housed fine arts and antique marionettes.

Due to another bout of severe easterly winds called the Levanter, we remained in Cadiz for a total of 10 days, and although frustrated and eager to break through to the Mediterranean, we were also quietly pleased to be stuck in this very special city, so little touched by tourism. Angie preferred it to Seville for this very reason. During our stay, more friends of ours from our winter in Lagos, John & Carol aboard 'Genesis' - a Westerly Centaur - also arrived at the marina. When the Levanter finally let up Genesis, Hitrapia and their crews slipped away from Cadiz, excitedly leaving the Atlantic behind, anxiously bound for Cape Trafalgar, The Straits of Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean Sea. Sadly Roam had left a couple of days earlier, heading back west to the Algarve with engine problems.

Landfall in Gibraltar

With only a 48hr window before yet another Levanter was forecast to blow and after a wet but exhilarating rounding of Cape Trafalgar, we opted to put in to Barbate, in the hope of getting an up-to-date weather forecast and wait for the tide, before pushing on towards the notorious Straits. Pulling in at 7pm we stayed just nine hours, making use of the gorgeous shower facilities, the only thing this marina has to offer. After dinner we managed to get a little rest before leaving at 4am to catch the favourable tide. The hassle of double-checking the forecast, our tide calculations and getting up in the middle of the night was rewarded with a straight-forward passage past Tarifa, the windiest corner in Europe and into the Mediterranean. Traversing this strip of water on a small yacht, alongside so many ships was quite overwhelming. On the smallest of scales, we felt that we had briefly flowed through the ever-moving commercial cogs of this world and seafaring history. We had visited Gibraltar by car from Portugal last October, to say our farewells to fellow cruisers taking part in the 2005-07 Blue Water Rally, but we hadn't liked the place much. We can now say that it is easily the most beautiful and emotional landfall we have experienced. The barren Rock of Gibraltar and the tall slender tower of its mosque is an awesome sight from the sea, as is the twin pillar of Africa, clearly visible on a fine day. Having telephoned Queensway Quay marina from Barbate, they welcomed and found room for both Hitrapia and Genesis, even though the marina was full and undergoing major re-development. After clearing in, the four of us toasted our safe arrival into the Mediterranean with 'Bucks Fizz' before crashing out thoroughly exhausted.

At 7am on the 1st June, we were rudely awoken by howling winds and spent an hour on deck adjusting mooring lines, springs and fenders but grateful to be tied up and thankful that we had made it through the Straits yesterday. As we'd visited Gibraltar 7 months ago there was little sightseeing left to explore, but as F7-8's blew for the next 7 days we also visited the Gibraltar Museum, The Trafalgar Cemetery and took a hike out to the mosque and Europa Point. But our two most visited places of interest were the very tranquil Royal Gibraltar Yacht Club, for a reasonably priced pint and a great view, and Morrison's supermarket! Sadly, a major attraction for any cruiser that has been away from the UK for a while will be a British supermarket.

Next Page > Arabian Nights. Across the Straits to North Africa.